Base works

This is the most important part of your build and will stop any problems developing later on as the cabin settles in the months after your build. The cabin should be constructed on a firm level base whether that is solid sheet concrete, concrete slabs or tanalized bearers.

We suggest the following base solutions:

1. Wood Sleepers
For grounds that are very uneven and require digging out to get a level base.
Also where buildings need to be raised due to flooding or soggy ground.

2. Blocks
Blocks are an easy quick solution for uneven grounds or where building needs to be raised.
Blocks should be laid out in strip formation running in the same direction as the buildings base bearers.

3. Concrete lintels
Custom made exclusively for us they have been developed to offer a quick cost effective solution that can be provided on day of install. Ground needs to be level, flat and firm. Lintels are normally laid in the opposite direction of the buildings base bearers, but can also be the same direction with a DPC membrane used.

4. Custom
We offer a bespoke base service for unusual or large builds.

Fixings Required For The Build

Roof Boards
25/30mm screws or nails to fix the roof boards to the roof joists. approximate about 200 pieces.
The tongue and groove roof boards should be tapped into place, do not force together, there should be some room for expansion.
Treat the roof boards especially the cut ends liberally with wood preserver.

Base Bearers
Base fixing can only be determined on the sub structure. Ideal would be 'Fischer fixers' for concrete or block.

Roof Tiles
Galvanised clout head nails. The roof tiles have self adhesive strip on the back but nails must be used as well.

Wall Boards
If screws for wood are required to force into place (normally if base is not perfectly level)
Good Quality Wood screws 120mm long. Drill down 50% through first log and take up 50% second log.

Floor and Decking
Screws 4x55mm
The floor inside should go in last. When laid the last piece will need to be cut. Leave a space around the entire floor for expansion.
Small screws or pins for the finishing pieces around the floor edging will be needed.

Treatment

The cabin is delivered untreated offering you the opportunity to protect and decorate it to your own personal taste. Untreated buildings do naturally grey with age within around 12 months; therefore we recommend that you treat the cabin during construction with a high quality preservative and at regular intervals according to the preservative manufacturer's instructions.

The Log Cabin is delivered with temporary packaging to protect it during transportation. Although an outside product the wood should be treated or kept dry during the construction process. We recommend that any exposed timber is covered immediately after delivery to avoid any blue stain issues.

The base is constructed with pressure treated bearers for maximum durability

Installation

1. Base Wood
Place the treated (green or brown) base bearers (basement) evenly spaced. These can be secured to the ground, if a concrete pad use Fischer anchor through the wood into the concrete.

If the cabin is on wet or soft ground or there will be excess rain then we recommend using a membrane. Cut plastic strips or use a membrane roll and place along the top and bottom of the base bearers, this will help ensure no water transfer through the base bearers to the main body of the building. Do not place a big plastic sheet under the building this will stop drainage and keep the base bearers in sitting water; use a good quality breathable membrane that allows the water to drain through.

2. Wall Logs
Place first level of wall logs (x4), these are normally 2 half height wall logs and 2 full height sized wall logs. The first row of wall logs will sit directly onto the base bearers. On Some models there will be a first row wall log with a cut out for the door.
Screw the first level of wall logs into the base bearers, it is very important to check it is totally square and level. (If not square and level you will have problems later in the build)

Add the wall boards until you are at around 5ft and then add the window frames and door frames.
Only add screws to wall logs when necessary, if wall logs need manipulation to fit and sit properly then you can add a screw through the grooved section. Drill down 50% of the wall log and catch 50% of the wall log underneath. Only do this if the wall logs are twisted or bent, the weight of the building when completed will settle and move the wall logs into place.

3. Windows and Doors
Windows and doors should not be screwed directly into the wall logs. The window frames and the door frames; frames should be screwed together if in part form before fitting.
Expanding foam is the best way to fit a window or a door frame, add the foam around the frames to create a good seal. Let the windows and doors settle into place after a few weeks, only then add screws into each corner of the frame. This method may require adjustment seasonally.
Use a good quality silicone sealant and apply liberally around windows and doors inside and outside. Make sure the sealant is well applied and sealed into every edge and join to ensure a good seal.

4. Roof
Roof purlins, trusses roof sections will sometimes need manipulation to sit in place, try and avoid any cutting. Roof boards should be nailed into the roof purlins. Roof boards should be screwed or serrated nails into the purlins (roof beams), fix roof boards into every purlin to ensure a good fix; we recommend a minimum of 3 fixes per roof board (top, middle, bottom). The roof boards tongue and groove should not be forced tight, just light hand pushed together to allow for some expansion and contraction.

5. Roof Tiles
For best results add a roof membrane before the roof tiles. Roof tiles follow the tile diagram exactly as shown, making the first row the opposite way round and laying the next row directly on top the correct way around. Allow the first row to overhang by just over half an inch. Use a quality gutter sealant or flexible silicone to bead along the apex roof edge.


6. Baulk Clamps
On the plan the baulk clamps (storm braces) go into the corners. Position these towards the top of the building almost to the top of the wall edge. The small hole put towards the top and screw through with a large screw or add a washer and screw tight into the wall board. The slotted hole (positioned towards the floor) you can put a large nut and bolt with washers or a large screw with washer and do not make very tight, just loose. This will allow the cabin to move but limits the total amount of movement.

7. Floor
The floor, screw or nail into place. Leave a small even gap all around the edges for expansion. The small skirting trim you can put around the floor to cover the gap. We recommend you lay this last to avoid scratching the floor whilst constructing. We suggest using some old board to move around the cabin whilst constructing.

8. Wood Treatment

Please call us and request our pdf’s on suggested treatment for your cabin.
Treat inside and out with good quality wood treatment, do not leave for more than 7 days untreated. Inside can be treated in a natural clear coat, paint windows and doors a few times to ensure a good seal.
Apply liberally wood treatment to all the exposed roof boards, especially the cut ends. Check and retreat the roof boards yearly.
We recommend an automatic humidity fan to be placed on the wall towards the top of the apex. They are approximately £60.00 to buy.

9. Silicone
A good quality silicone should be added around the windows and doors inside and out. Silicone should be used in the corners of the wall log joints inside and out, we also recommend using silicone along the top of the wall where it meets the roof on the inside.

10. Guttering
Add half sized guttering around the building. Ensure drainage is away from the building.

11. Decking
Decking place with a small gap to allow for expansion. (A coin space can work)